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Food

9 dishes that wowed Dallas' toughest food critic

Everywhere you turn in Dallas these days, you crash into something delicious.

Here (in no particular order) are 9 plates that have bowled me over since the beginning of the year.

1. Duck and Dumplings at Rapscallion

New on the menu since I reviewed  Rapscallion in September, this is a saucy dish of house-made cavatelli, duck confit, rapini, baby turnips, wild mushrooms and parmesan -- like old-fashioned chicken and dumplings gone all ducky-dreamy and sophisticated.

Duck and dumplings at Rapscallion restaurant on lower Greenville in Dallas is one of the 9...
Duck and dumplings at Rapscallion restaurant on lower Greenville in Dallas is one of the 9 dishes that have lately wowed restaurant critic Leslie Brenner. The dish is house-made ricotta cavatelli, duck confit, rapini, baby turnips, wild mushrooms and parmesan. (Leslie Brenner / Staff)
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2.  Dry-cured ham and egg salad toast at the Theodore

Toasts have come and gone from Tim Byres' and executive chef Scott Romano's menu at  the Theodore, their restaurant in NorthPark Center, but happily this one -- staring egg salad and excellent ham -- remains. It comes conveniently sliced in four for easy sharing.

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3. Shaved Brussels sprouts and dried cranberry salad at Remedy

Wait - don't even think about adding chicken or grilled salmon to chef Danyele McPherson's salad at Remedy, the glammy soda fountain-style place on lower Greenville. It's perfect as is! (Honestly, I don't know why restaurants feel the need to suggest such foolish additions -- it can only muck up their fine creations.)  Besides the B-sprouts and cranberries, McPherson also tosses in kale, roasted spaghetti squash, blue cheese, crispy barley and toasted almonds and dresses it citrus-sherry vinaigrette. See what I mean? Perfect.

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Shaved Brussels sprouts and dried cranberry salad at Remedy
Shaved Brussels sprouts and dried cranberry salad at Remedy(Andy Jacobsohn / Staff Photographer)

4. Binchotan-grilled A5 Miyazaki Wagyu beef at Teppo

Crazy as it sounds, this 5-ounce portion of steak serves three people: That's how incredibly rich it is. A5 Miyazaki Wagyu is some of the most spectacular beef in the world, and seared on the super-hot binchotan (Japanese charcoal) yakitori grill at Teppo, it's as amazing as any I've had.  Hard to fathom that beef so tender, really like butter, can be so unbelievably flavorful. It's also crazy expensive: $130 for the serving.

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A5 Miyazaki Wagyu beef cooked on the binchotan grilled  at Teppo Yakitori-Sushi Bar
A5 Miyazaki Wagyu beef cooked on the binchotan grilled at Teppo Yakitori-Sushi Bar(Rose Baca / Staff Photographer)

5. Texas fried okra at 18th and Vine BBQ

There's fried okra, and then there's fried okra. And the okra at 18th and Vine BBQ, fried up whole and crisp and served with an amped-up Thousand Island dressing, is some of the best around. Crunchy, juicy and addictive.

Texas fried okra at 18th and Vine BBQ
Texas fried okra at 18th and Vine BBQ(Andrew Buckley / Special Contributor)

6. Beef tartare with cauliflower, Thai chile, peanuts and cilantro at FT33

FT33, one of my favorite restaurants, has a new chef: Nilton "Junior" Borges, who created this superb tartare that riffs on Thai flavors. Where might you know Borges from? Uchi, which he recently helped earn five stars in a review and the title of The Best in DFW Best New Restaurant of 2015.  Matt McCallister hasn't left the restaurant; he remains, in an evolving chef-owner role.

Beef tartare with cauliflower, Thai chile, peanuts and cilantro at FT33. Photographed Feb....
Beef tartare with cauliflower, Thai chile, peanuts and cilantro at FT33. Photographed Feb. 12, 2016.(Leslie Brenner / Staff)

7. Couture Croque at Grange Hall

Have you been to lunch at Grange Hall, the restaurant-in-a-boutique in Knox-Henderson? It's a lovely place for refined and beautiful fare. I loved this smart take on a croque monsieur, which uses freshly baked pate a choux (cream puff pastry) in place of the traditional pain de mie white bread. So elegant!

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8. Alaskan king crab fried rice at Montlake Cut

It is physically almost impossible to resist fried rice, and the version with Alaskan king crab at Montlake Cut, Nick Badovinus' new seafood restaurant in Preston Center, is wonderful.  The restaurant recently earned three stars in an enthusiastic review.

AK king crab fried rice at Montlake Cut in Dallas on Feb. 17, 2016. (Rose Baca/The Dallas...
AK king crab fried rice at Montlake Cut in Dallas on Feb. 17, 2016. (Rose Baca/The Dallas Morning News)(Rose Baca, The Dallas Morning News)
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9. Twenty-one-day dry-aged double-cut Heritage pork chop for two at Filament

Executive chef Cody Sharp's sumptuous chop at Filament, easily giant enough for two (but with plenty for three, along with a few smaller share-plates), is one of the best dishes I've tasted in some time.  Sharp tops it with warm bacon-onion marmelade and sends it to the table (where it makes quite a statement!) with braised greens and charred Tokyo turnips. The restaurant recently earned four stars.  If you're up for a feast, it doesn't get much better than this.