Sprezza in Oak Lawn, North Dallas

Dinner at Julian Barsotti’s newest restaurant, in a freestanding house on Maple Ave., feels like visiting easygoing friends with impeccable taste. Breezy and spacious, it’s more laid-back than Nonna, more festive than Carbone’s Fine Food and Wine. A pizzeria in Rome’s Campo de’ Fiore was Barsotti’s inspiration, and his freeform pizza al taglio is wonderful. Spuntini (bar snacks) and antipasti follow the seasons, as do the terrific house-made pastas — though there are classics, such as spaghetti alla carbonara — on offer as well. Main courses? Not so much — usually there’s just one. But that feels exactly right. A thoughtful, moderately priced one-page wine list focuses on Southern Italy. Full bar. Closed Sunday. -- Leslie Brenner/Guide