On any given afternoon, the most stylish dining room in Dallas is likely the penthouse restaurant above Forty Five Ten, downtown’s purveyor of cutting-edge fashion. There’s a lot to take in: views through floor-to-ceiling windows and from a wraparound terrace, a clientele dressed to the nines and beautifully plated contemporary American fare on the table. After six months, chef Michael Ehlert has shifted the perspective enough to make it his, whether it’s taming a burly Reuben sandwich into a flouncy tartine or rethinking arugula salad as a suave and slightly Moroccan dish. But Ehlert truly comes into his own during the three nights a week when dinner is served, particularly with a tasting menu that is among the best in the city. Don’t miss Alex Plenty’s sophisticated cocktails, and there’s an inspired wine list, too, emphasizing France, Italy and California. Michalene Busico/Restaurant Critic
