This cheerful Plano Chinese place is a tale of two restaurants, both of them good. On one side, you get hot pot, an all-you-can-eat, cook-it yourself extravaganza. You plunge quality ingredients — from a long list of sliced meats, seafood, vegetables and noodles — into boiling broth (which is either mild; spicy; or, in a bisected pot, both), pluck them out, and eat. Each addition yields up a little of itself to the broth, which in turn perfumes the next ingredient. The other side offers a menu of some 200 Sichuan dishes; they’re punchy but not insanely spicy, with clear, fresh flavors. The garlicky spicy cold noodles are fine, and the lamb with cumin is outstanding, as is the preserved pork stir-fried with leeks and fermented black beans. No alcohol; BYOB, no corkage fee. --Mark Vamos/Guide
