Co-owner Adam Salazar pours cocktails at The Mitchell, a restaurant and cocktail bar, on Thursday, February 12, 2015 in downtown Dallas, Texas.

Co-owner Adam Salazar pours cocktails at The Mitchell, a restaurant and cocktail bar, on Thursday, February 12, 2015 in downtown Dallas, Texas.

Ashley Landis/Staff Photographer

The new downtown lounge the Mitchell has an unfussy purity that's immediately appealing. It takes over the narrow Main Street lodgment previously inhabited by Prohibition and the Chesterfield, but looks and drinks differently enough to stand on its own.

The Mitchell features a short food menu and cocktail list and a really long punch list of spirits, especially gin, and Champagnes. If you like gin or bubbly - and this imbiber is very passably fond of both - then here you should find yourself.

The decor is quietly celebratory with a touch of old New Orleans: wrought-iron patio fittings; exposed red brick, original to the building; gold-leaf wall coverings. (A Streetcar Named Desire played on the high-def screen over the kitchen pass-through one evening last week.)

The cocktail menu is culled to the nub - eight offerings, most referencing classic movies in their names. Night of the Hunter is a heady Manhattan variant of Redemption rye, Punt e Mes vermouth, brown sugar and cinnamon syrup and bitters. The Third Man features an Old Tom gin and black tea syrup in soda.

That brevity presents a marked contrast to the infamously short-lived Chesterfield, where a heavy bound volume excavated the entire history of drink-making.

Feel free to just order a martini; 28 gins are in service. The menu declares that martinis will be shaken unto death, not stirred as preferred by craft-cocktail convention, and served with a twist. It was hard to argue with the pearlescent, dry but not parched Boodles that landed on the bartop.

It was possible to argue with the music selection that night - pop hits of the '80s, the Huey Lewis run. The aural equivalent of a crisp martini or silky Manhattan is emphatically not "Hip to Be Square."

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