Happily, many of the impeccably sourced cuts, seared over a blazing wood fire in the open hearth, are large enough to share, and carved in the kitchen. As a starter, a party of two can choose between an uncommonly good, generously sized spinach and arugula salad with pancetta, egg and gremolata to share ($14), or Oscar a la plancha – asparagus with king crab and hollandaise ($25). Then split an 18-ounce Ambassador boneless strip ($69) and an $8 side of russet fries. For dessert, $9 buys you the fabulous Elvis -- layers of puff pastry, chocolate and mascarpone mousses, sliced bananas and peanut butter, topped with toasted meringue. For $100 or $111 (plus drinks, tax and tip), that's quite a delectable party.
There's also a fabulous cheeseburger, $19 including an order of fries.
Wines are pricey, but the least expensive bottle of white – a 2015 Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from Alto Adige, Italy, for $45 – is delightfully vibrant. Reds start at $45, too; at that price I love the 2013 Duchman Family Vineyards Montepulciano (from Texas!). At $60, a 2012 Muga Reserva Rioja is reliably delicious with steak.