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Food

Need a clam pizza fix? Be quick about it! Nonna's about to close for a redo

Julian Barsotti is closing his 4-star restaurant Nonna for three weeks for a top-to-bottom redo.

Last time I dined at Nonna, Julian Barsotti's wonderful Italian place in Highland Park, a friend in my party said the lights hanging from the ceiling looked like sperm. I hadn't made the connection on my many previous visits, but now that he mentioned it . . .

Well, if you get over to Nonna in the next few days, you can see what my friend means.  And it's worth getting there (if you can get in), as it's still one of Dallas' most delightful restaurants. After that, forget about it, for most of August at least.

No, Barsotti isn't going fishin'. He will be closing the 9-year-old restaurant for three weeks in order to accomplish a top-to-bottom redesign. Yes, including the lighting fixtures.

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"The enhancements will not alter the fundamental layout," Barsotti told me in an email, "but will improve upon what is nice about the space." The new color scheme will be grays, blues and brown. The seating in the bar will be rearranged. Chairs, bar stools, banquettes, art, bar top and pizza bar top will be new. The bathrooms will be refinished. Perhaps most significant is a redo of the ceiling, which will be a suspended wooden slat affair spanning both dining rooms. Felt will be affixed out of sight on the top side, "to address acoustical issues in the restaurant." Amen to that!

What Barsotti is most excited about, though, is a renovation of his chef's dining table, in a room inside the kitchen. "The room for sometime has dueled as our chef's office and a dining table for family, friends and a few customers," says Barsotti. "We are making improvements to make it hopefully really special." A custom-built oval black stone table -- which anyone will be able to reserve -- will seat up to eight.

Barsotti plans to unveil the new Nonna on Monday, Aug. 29.