The beer: The Salty Lady

Brewery: Martin House Brewing Co. in Fort Worth

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Style: Gose; a tart and salty, top-fermented, unfiltered beer. It's made with 50 percent to 60 percent malted wheat and lightly spiced with coriander. This is an old German style that a handful of breweries in its native Leipzig region are reviving; American craft breweries are reinterpreting it as well.

The pitch: Here's a tart beer that's worth its salt. True to the style, the beer has a rather salty, sour lemon and grapefruit profile. The brewery's house-fermented saison yeast lends an earthy quality, and the malted grain flavor balances the beer's tartness. The salt keeps it on the dry side, and a hint of coriander adds a touch of complexity. Expect to pucker up when sipping this unusual, refreshing brew. It's a natural for summer.

Serve it, pair it: In Germany, gose beers are often served in narrow cylindrical glasses, and sometimes served in a wider glass with a shot of raspberry syrup. Served straight up, it's a versatile food pairing beer, since the saltiness enhances flavors. It would pair well with mussels, oysters, ceviche, goat cheese, grilled fish or chicken, and dishes with egg- or cream-enriched sauces.

Get some: A six-pack of 12-ounce cans sells for about $10.49; widely available at stores and supermarkets that sell craft beers.

Tina Danze is a freelance writer. Follow here on Twitter @Tina Danze.

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