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The Skellig serves come-as-you-are comfortability on a strip of Henderson Avenue

Dallas' affinity for pubs seems to be limitless. Bric-a-brac, beer and burgers always find a welcome.

A leading purveyor of come-as-you-are comfortability, Feargal McKinney, known for the Old Monk, Idle Rich and Blackfriar pubs, has just opened the Skellig on a thickly settled stretch of Henderson Avenue.

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Don't expect many surprises -- pub fans won't -- though the sylphic servers in Daisy Duke cutoffs caused at least one set of eyes to bug. Do expect rough-hewn surfaces (the Skellig is more rustic than the

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J Black's it replaced), sturdy victuals, abundant suds (19 beers on draft) and sports-tuned TV screens. A 30-by-20-foot rectangular bar anchors the interior; spacious patios gird the north and west exteriors.

It's a mark of how prevalent cocktail culture has become that the Skellig boasts a passable short list. Drinks include an exceptional Old-Fashioned (Buffalo Trace bourbon, dosed with Peychaud's bitters instead of Angostura) and the tasty Sipsmith (Caña Brava rum, St. Germain liqueur, Fernet-Branca and bitters). Both are $10.

More: Look inside The Skellig, new pub now open on Henderson Avenue in Dallas

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The bar is named for the Skellig Islands in Ireland. Another touch of whimsy is the background music. A tuba-forward version of Marvin Gaye's "Sexual Healing" by the Hot 8 Brass Band and a deep cut from David Byrne played one evening last week.