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You feel bad ordering an Amstel Light at the Libertine. Drinking low-cal beer seems like a cop-out at the Lower Greenville bar, which opened in September and specializes in imported and craft beers – think of stuff brewed by Belgian monks in monasteries.

JASON JANIK/Special Contributor

They've also got neat cocktails (such as the Pimm's Cup), and a souped-up pub-food menu that's prepared by an actual chef, Ian Feiwus.

The bar is owned by the same people who own the Meridian Room near Fair Park. But the Libertine feels more like its grown-up cousin – a pub for people who know what good pubs should be. On a recent Friday at 9 p.m., the place was mostly empty but still inviting. The space resembles a large, antique train car, with a long wooden bar opposite a row of sturdy wooden booths. Old-fashioned-looking light fixtures hang from the ceiling.

We ordered dinner – mussels in a sherry sauce for yours truly, and a turkey sandwich for my friend – and tried to decompress after a long day at work. The music helped: The Afghan Whigs' "66," one of our top-10 favorite songs ever, came droning through the speakers.

That wasn't enough to keep us in an empty bar while the night was still young, though. After dinner, we left and tooled around some other Lower Greenville bars. We arrived back at the Libertine around 11:30.

This time, there was a sizeable crowd full of mid-20s and thirtysomethings. We struck up a conversation with a guy at the bar, a jovial dude who was into music. ("You went to the Justin Timberlake show? So did I!")

Even the bartender was nice. Toward the end of the night, he presented us with two shots. "What are these?" my friend asked.

"Silk panties," he said. "Don't pay attention to the name."

Little did he know: We love silk panties.

Got a hot club tip? Send it to Lesley at ltellez@quickdfw.com.

THE LIBERTINE: 2101 Greenville Ave.; www.myspace.com/libertinebar

WHAT TO WEAR: Ladies – whatever's comfortable. Or you can dress up a bit if you want, maybe jeans and a cute top. Men – T-shirt and jeans.

WHAT THE MUSIC IS LIKE: It varies. The Libertine doesn't host DJs regularly, but it does have a computerized jukebox behind the bar full of indie rock, punk, hip-hop and more.

SMOKING: Yes.