It's one of the most auspicious debuts of a very busy season -- exciting both because of the stature of the chef, and also because Dallas suffers from a dearth of great seafood restaurants.
The menu, which changes daily, is super appealing. One from this week leads off with East Coast and West Coast oysters served on the half shell or "dressed," then crudos and other raw-bar items, including king crab "on the half," a Dungeness crab cocktail and a two-level seafood plateau. On the hot side, there's Northwest clam chowder; a king crab and chanterelle fettucine dish; Mount Lassen trout amandine; pan-roasted Tasmanian steelhead with dill gribiche; steamed or garlic-roasted San Juan Island Dungeness crab; Manila clams and wine and more. Oh, and a steak frites, if you insist. Badovinus runs the kitchen with executive chef Linton Romero. For dessert, how does huckleberry cheesecake sound? Yep. Sounds good to me, too.
Montlake Cut, 8220 Westchester Drive, Dallas; 214-739-8220. Dinner Monday-Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.