There's a "speakeasy" boomlet hereabouts.
Drinking hideaways for the cognoscenti range from the nightclub Truth & Alibi, with its candy-store front, to the underground hotel den Midnight Rambler to the new restaurant Twenty-Seven, which late on Saturday nights turns into XXVII Antique, a destination for larrupin' cocktails and live music.
Renowned pop-up chef David Anthony Temple has gone brick-and-mortar in Deep Ellum. The place is small -- 1,800 square feet with seating for 27 and stools for eight to 10 at a tiny bar - but the ambitions are expansive. That includes sharp cocktails created by Moses Guidry. He holds court on Saturdays with just enough flair and patter to evoke a Prohibition-era barman without descending into shtick.
His French 27 is a French 75 done the way the Moveable Feast folks would have - cognac, sparkling wine, lemon juice and orange bitters. The recast Vieux Carré called A La Louisiana is potent and pleasing: rye whiskey, Carpano Antica vermouth, an absinthe mist and Peychaud's and Angostura bitters. The Southern Stark stings with Ancho Reyes liqueur.
Cocktails are $11 to $13.
Music at XXVII Antique is eclectic. On March 21, vocalist and DJ Karine Fleurima spun a captivating mix, by turns soulful and ethereal. For April 4, Jordan Kahn will return for his third show of saloon-singer standards.
"This is very un-Dallasy," said one night-life regular who came in out of the rain. "This is more like Brooklyn."
Admission: Mr. Dallas is cognoscenti-less enough that he didn't realize "Brooklyn" counts as high praise now. The smattering of diners who stuck around for the speakeasy no doubt did. They looked to be well-heeled foodies in flats, content knowing they were in the place to be.
Twenty-Seven, 2901 Elm St. at Malcolm X Boulevard, Dallas. 972-803-3265. twentysevendallas.com. XXVII Antique begins at midnight Saturdays.
Follow Mr. Dallas on Twitter at @misterdallasvip.