Sugarbacon Proper Kitchen in McKinney will expand to Dallas. Sugarbacon's burger is excellent, says our restaurant critic.

Sugarbacon Proper Kitchen in McKinney will expand to Dallas. Sugarbacon's burger is excellent, says our restaurant critic.

Vernon Bryant/The Dallas Morning News

While some are still mourning the closure of nearly 40-year-old comfort food restaurant Dixie House in Lakewood, a new tenant is already making a move. Sugarbacon Proper Kitchen is expected to open in its place, in Lakewood Shopping Center near Lakewood Theater, in summer or fall 2016.

Sugarbacon's first restaurant is in the quaint McKinney square. It earned three stars from Dallas Morning News restaurant critic Leslie Brenner in October 2015.

Interesting: This restaurant launched in the suburbs and is now expanding to Dallas. It's usually the other way around.

McKinney's Sugarbacon delivers some succulent surprises (3 stars)

"We hope to be a neighborhood destination, just like our current restaurant right off the square in McKinney, Texas," says partners Johnny Carros and chef Jon Thompson in a press release.

The restaurant is named for a Berkshire pork belly dish that's been "brined, cold-smoked, confited, pressed, cubed then fried," Brenner reports. But that's not all. Then it's "bathed in ancho-chile barbecue sauce and set, with a slice of bread- and-butter pickle, on a thin, round crouton." If you're into pork belly, you'll likely feel obligated to get it, given the name.

Consider the burger, too: It's one of the best in the area.

Sugarbacon Proper Kitchen expected to open at 6400 Gaston Avenue, Dallas, in summer or fall 2016. The original is located at 216 W. Virginia St., Suite 101, McKinney. sugarbacon.com.

The Sugarbacon is an appetizer of pork belly and spicy pickles on a crostini.

The Sugarbacon is an appetizer of pork belly and spicy pickles on a crostini.

Kevin Marple
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