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SAYING GOODBYE

Captain Jessie Adame at the now-closed ll Mulino New York

Many longtime dining favorites closed in 2006, along with a handful of newcomers that didn't make the one-year mark.

Some of the highest-profile closings were those of the pricey Il Mulino New York and the Entertainment Collaborative's well-respected Green Room and Jeroboam. Trendy Oak Lawn hot spot the Draelion, also known as the Drae, called it quits after 3 ½ years. Modo Mio lasted almost a decade.

Tutto, one of Guide's picks of the best new restaurants of 2005, went through an ownership change before closing the doors. George, which topped our list in 2004, quietly shut down in June so that owners George and Katie Brown could concentrate on their catering business ... and their toddling triplets.

About a year and a half after relocating from Deep Ellum, chef Tim Byres shut down Standard in Uptown. Smith and Wollensky closed its opulent Dallas steakhouse on the Dallas North Tollway in late December.

Talent and name recognition weren't enough to save the newest ventures of chefs Chris Svalesen and David McMillan, whose Sage and Kingfish, respectively, closed mere months after opening. (Mr. McMillan's neighboring 62 Main is still doing fine, though.)

Other restaurants that failed to see a birthday include Tarantino's Deep Ellum, Thomas and Leggitt Tavern, Starfish, Yes Cafe and NOW Restaurant, which gave up the ghost before we could review it.

Old-timers weren't immune, either. Such culinary stalwarts as Chez Gérard, Greenville Bar and Grill and Gershwin's are no more. La Trattoria Lombardi closed on Hall Street after more than two decades but reopened on Lovers Lane with a new name, La Paesana.

BACK FROM THE DEAD

The new Tolbert's uses the original recipe for the famed bowl of red.

Maybe there's still hope for some of the dearly departed. 2006 saw a return of many once-defunct eateries, a few in their original spaces. Most notable was the rebirth of Deep Ellum Cafe, which found itself back in the same narrow, brick-walled space it inhabited in 1987.

After a brief closure, the classic French restaurant Le Rendezvous reopened in its old Preston-Royal digs, albeit with new owner Sandro Tamburin. And Lower Greenville got another dose of hot and spicy cuisine when Firehouse heated up again.

Other restaurateurs brought familiar names to new settings.

Alessio Franceschetti resurrected his namesake Alessio's il Ristorante in East Dallas, after an almost seven-year absence.

Cafe Margaux returned as Margaux's, a Restaurant by Design. Owner Kay Agnew's eatery, named after her daughter, now turns out its smart Cajun-Creole fare in Dallas' Design District.

After dalliances in Addison, Plano and Colleyville, restaurant veteran Tom Ruggeri came back to Big D. Like its predecessors, the new Ruggeri's puts an upscale stamp on Italian classics.

Kathleen Tolbert Ryan kept it all in the family when she opened Tolbert's in Grapevine. Her father, legendary chili impresario Frank X. Tolbert, founded Tolbert's Texas Chili Parlor in downtown Dallas in 1976. Now Mrs. Ryan and her husband keep the fires burning using the original recipe for her dad's famed bowl of red.

Longtime Las Colinas fave Mustang Cafe was revived in Plano's Shops at Willow Bend mall by owner Mark Orbach after a three-year absence. Alas, the stunning bronze mustang sculpture that gave the restaurant its name remains in Irving.

And though the much-missed Ethiopian eatery Queen of Sheba reopened in Addison in the fall of 2005, we weren't able to review the new incarnation until the first week of 2006. According to our reviewer, it was worth the wait.

ATTACK OF THE CLONES

Fireside Pies branched out to Plano.

Restaurants replicated themselves with abandon, many spinning off into suburban milieus.

In addition to Fireside Pies and Little Katana, mentioned earlier, we saw sequels from Cafe Madrid, Big Shucks and Brothers Fried Chicken. Urban Bistro expanded northward, launching a second location in the former Modo Mio space less than six months after making its Park Cities debut.

Ferré Ristorante e Bar in West Village, Uptown's Taverna Pizzeria and Risottoria and Arlington's Piranha Killer Sushi headed west with openings in Fort Worth's Sundance Square. The area's most successful "Salvatex" restaurant, Gloria's, also moved into Cowtown; its eighth location opened in October in the former Montgomery Ward building on West Seventh Street.

COMING ATTRACTIONS

Dean Fearing will open Fearing's in the Ritz-Carlton this year.

Reviews for a few splashy late-2006 arrivals will be coming your way in coming weeks. Look for write-ups on downtown's Luqa, Addison's expansive Veuve and Nine 7 Two lounge, Martini Park in Plano and the reimagined Tillman's Roadhouse in Oak Cliff's Bishop Arts District, as well as Frisco newcomers Isabella's, Kotta Sushi Lounge and Bonnie Ruth's Cafe Trottoir et Patisserie.

Also on the way in 2007: news and reviews of the year's most notable openings, including N9NE, Kenichi, Nove Italiano and Victory Tavern (all in Victory Park) as well as Park Cities Prime, SushiSamba and Alberto Lombardi's Sangria. And, of course, Dallas' most anticipated eatery, Fearing's, the luxe Ritz-Carlton restaurant headed by genial celebrity chef Dean Fearing.

-- Kim Harwell

Surefire successes
Many of the best new restaurants of 2006 were opened by big names or big chains

By Kim Harwell / Dining Writer

When it comes to the restaurant business, there's no such thing as a safe bet.

That said, many of the most celebrated debuts of 2006 seemed about as close to a sure thing as possible. There were well-received new restaurants from some of the most acclaimed names in town, along with openings from well-respected if less-well-known chefs whose résumés include auspicious posts at Lola, Old Hickory Steakhouse and The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Heavy hitters from around the country moved into Dallas, bringing their proven formulas for crowd- and critic-pleasing dining experiences. Even the launch of a small Asian fusion eatery seemed a less-risky proposition with owners married to two of the city's most recognizable celebrity chefs.

Still, not every splashy newcomer had substance to back up its sizzle, and a few notables closed their doors soon after opening.

All restaurants considered for this list were reviewed in 2006, though some opened in late 2005.

Courtney Perry / Special to DMN

Bijoux chef Scott Gottlich

Best new restaurant of 2006

Bijoux
5450 W. Lovers Lane, 214-350-6100, www.bijouxrestaurant.com

Chef Scott Gottlich's jewel of a restaurant is similar in concept to Lola, where he served as executive chef until early 2005. Both feature fixed-price dinners and extravagant chef's tasting menus offered with or without wine pairings. The small portions of exquisitely prepared New American cuisine are stunning in their conception and execution; coupled with the understated elegance of the dining room and the knowledgeable, polished performance of the waitstaff, it all adds up to a five-star rating and this reviewer's best meal of the year.

Milton Hinnant/ DMN

Stephan Pyles

Best example of living up to the hype

Stephan Pyles
1807 Ross Ave., 214-580-7000,
www.stephanpyles.com

With apologies to VH1, Stephan Pyles may be having the best year ever. The celebrated restaurateur was named Chef of the Year by Esquire magazine for the "New Millennium Southwestern Cuisine" served at his namesake downtown restaurant. Although some signature dishes from his Star Canyon days have resurfaced, it's his innovative takes on ceviche and tapas that deservedly garner most of the buzz. A chic urban setting and solicitous service contribute to the five-star experience.

Roberto M. Sanchez / DMN

Trece's chef Amador Mora

Best move into the spotlight

Trece Mexican Kitchen and Tequila Lounge
4513 Travis St., 214-780-1900, www.trecerestaurant.com

Chef Amador Mora's story sounds like a movie of the week. The Mexico native started his career in the restaurant industry as a dishwasher, then worked his way up to the No. 2 spot behind Dean Fearing at the estimable Mansion on Turtle Creek. Today he heads his own kitchen at Trece, turning out sophisticated, high-concept Mexican cuisine in a festive, high-energy setting. The attention to detail is marred only by the oppressive noise level. But the food is captivating enough to entice diners to brave the din.

Darnell Renee / Special to DMN

Yutaka Yamoto at Yutaka Sushi Bistro

Best reason to brave Uptown parking

Yutaka Sushi Bistro
2633 McKinney Ave., 214-969-5533,
www.yutakasushibistro.com

Pristinely fresh raw fish and an inventive touch with more adventurous Asian fare mark this tiny McKinney Avenue restaurant as one of the best Japanese restaurants in the city. Chef Yutaka Yamoto's restaurant may be minimalist in design, but his flavors explode on the palate – not surprising when you realize he previously sliced and diced at such notable eateries as Nobu and the late Citizen. The place is usually packed, so come early if you want a shot at the prime real estate of the sushi bar.

Juan Guajardo / DMN

Craft is sleek and contemporary.

Best New York transplant

Craft
2440 Victory Park Lane, 214-397-4111,
www.craftrestaurant.com

You won't find any flowery menu descriptions at celebrity chef Tom Colicchio's much-anticipated restaurant in the white-hot W Dallas Victory Hotel & Residences. Offerings are listed simply, with only main ingredient and cooking preparation, so it can be a revelation when the terse "roasted young rabbit" turns out to be a mouth-smacking symphony of savory flavors. Mr. Colicchio's other ventures (including a gig hosting Bravo's Top Chef) keep him away from Dallas, for the most part. But chef de cuisine Kevin Maxey handles the kitchen ably. The sleek, modern decor and well-informed service help justify the lofty prices.

Milton Hinnant / DMN

Shinsei executive chef Casey Thompson and sushi chef Shuji Sugawara

Best place for ladies' night

Shinsei
7713 Inwood Road, 214-352-0005,
www.shinseirestaurant.com

Most of the initial buzz surrounding this chic Pan-Asian eatery centered on the better-known husbands of proprietors Lynae Fearing (former Mansion on Turtle Creek chef Dean Fearing) and Tracy Rathbun (Abacus and Jasper chef-owner Kent Rathbun). But credit for this Park Cities hot spot rests squarely in the hands of the ladies. The distaff theme continues with executive chef Casey Thompson, whose Asian fusion cuisine features a tantalizing blend of East and West. Gents, not to worry: Shinsei is an equal-opportunity employer, as evidenced by the stylized creations of its Elvis look-alike sushi chef, Shuji Sugawara.

Pichi Chuang / DMN

Gracie Everitt (left) dined at Urban Bistro with her mother, Elaine Everitt (far right), and friend Mary Black.

Best case of déjà vu

Urban Bistro
• Inwood Road, 214-358-1100
• Dallas Parkway, 972-931-7800
www.urbanbistrodallas.com

These days Avner Samuel might be best-known for the five-star French-inspired haute cuisine of Aurora. But many fans of the prolific chef still think of Mediterranean fare when his name is mentioned. Never shy about opening restaurants, Mr. Samuel launched two Urban Bistro locations in 2006, with a menu that includes such signature dishes as Moroccan beef cigars, lemon-kissed My Mother's Salad and his trademark trio of crème brûlées. The Far North Dallas spinoff is yet to be reviewed, but the Park Cities original, housed in the former home of the Riviera and George, wowed us with its taste of vintage Avner.

Matt Nager / DMN

The Grill on the Alley boasts a clubby steakhouse setting.

Best reason to hit the mall

The Grill on the Alley
13270 Dallas Parkway, 214-459-1601,
www.thegrill.com

This Beverly Hills chophouse has long been a La-La Land power-lunch spot. So it was uncertain how its classic cuisine and clubby steakhouse setting would translate to the retail wonderland of the newly expanded Galleria Dallas. Its success proves two things: Traditional steak and seafood dishes, deftly prepared and served with élan by a well-trained staff, never go out of style. And, yes, Far North Dallas has room for another upscale steakhouse.

Darnell Renee / Special to DMN

Buttermilk squash crêpes

Best reason to reconsider chain restaurants

Bice
100 Crescent Court, 214-922-9055,
www.bicedallas.com

The origins of Bice (pronounced "bee-chay") date to 1926 Milan and a small neighborhood trattoria run by Beatrice Ruggeri. Today the family-run chain boasts branches in far-flung locales from Tokyo to Buenos Aires to Beirut. Though it may not be an original, the Dallas outpost offers meticulously crafted contemporary Italian cuisine. After an expansive – and expensive – makeover, the Crescent space that formerly housed Gumbo's, We Oui and, most famously, Sam's Cafe is as sophisticated as the cuisine.

Darnell Renee / Special to DMN

Central 214's Tom Fleming

Best reason to check into the Hotel Palomar

Central 214
5680 N. Central Expressway, 214-443-9339,
www.central214.com

The glitzy W Hotel got the lion's share of attention in 2006, but the boutique Hotel Palomar, carved from the shell of a moribund former Hilton, can hold its own, thanks in no small part to its first-floor restaurant and lounge. Chef Tom Fleming eschews flashy food trends for rustic cuisine prepared simply with top-notch ingredients, resulting in the enticing dichotomy of upscale comfort food served in a see-and-be-seen setting.

Best new restaurants that didn't make the list

With so many worthy openings in 2006, it's hard to draw the line.

One tough decision was excluding restaurants whose second branches opened last year and, in some cases, outshone the originals. If Fireside Pies and Little Katana didn't have older siblings here, they would have easily made the cut.

Others worth a mention:

AMUSE: Across the street from the South Side on Lamar complex, executive chef Doug Brown's casual-chic eatery marries stylized New American fare with whimsical touches, resulting in such dishes as smoked salmon mousse cones and chocolate s'more fondue.

COAL VINES: Though the menu includes a few steak and seafood dishes, New York-style pizzas cooking in a coal-fired oven are the claim to fame of this cozy Uptown pizzeria and wine bar owned by Joseph Palladino (of Nick and Sam's and Il Mulino fame).

DUCE: Cowtown chef Tim Love had a big year in 2006, opening a Lonesome Dove in Manhattan and Duce, a new "modern European food lounge," in Fort Worth. Despite the continental leanings, Duce isn't too far removed from Mr. Love's cowboy-chic stylings; his menu includes hearty meat dishes and a selection of imaginative Texas tapas.

ZANDER'S HOUSE: Central Vietnamese fare takes the spotlight at chef So Bui's family-run eatery, where exotic treats include Vietnamese-style beef carpaccio and whole fried red snapper in chile-lime sauce.

Published in The Dallas Morning News: 01.05.07

/ Features