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Stop throwing shade at this Cuban classic cocktail and try its worthy wallop of a remake.

The Mojito is the pop song that took over summer. You heard it and loved it, or maybe you didn't - but still had to admit it was pretty catchy. Then, all of a sudden, it was everywhere, which for you was either the best thing ever or just totally insufferable. Even when it fell off the playlists, people kept asking for it while others kvetched. And lost in the mess was the fact that it was actually a pretty decent song.

And yet, the much-maligned Mojito has endured; for one thing, its mix of rum, mint, lime, sugar and soda taste great on a balmy day. Hemingway was a noted adherent. But as an excellent article in Punch recently noted, the Cuban-born classic with centuries-old roots has an image problem in the craft-cocktail world. Maybe it's because it became a mindless go-to for many, the guys' version of a Cosmopolitan. Maybe it's because it's, as the article describes it, "the quintessential chain-reaction drink, meaning the second you mix one, everyone within a half-mile radius is going to want one." Maybe it's because Pierce Brosnan tries to look cool drinking one as James Bond in Die Another Day. Whatever. It's time we stopped throwing shade at the  Mojito and gave it another listen.

And guess what: There's a worthy remake you should also try, and though it's not so new, it's never quite made the charts. It replaces rum with the magic elixir Green Chartreuse, always an intriguing move in my book. The potent French liqueur, whose mystery monk-made mix of 130 herbs, plants and flowers goes back 500 years, is an accomplished supporting actress, but rarely gets a starring role. When you're dealing with a 110-proof blast of blossomy jade lushness, after all, you've gotta be careful.

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The Green Chartreuse Mojito is an excellent drink, but nothing stunts a career like bad name (Frances Gumm, anyone? Marion Davis? Benedict Cumber - wait, never mind) and however this rich rendition came to be, it was foolishly recast as - wait for it - the Chartreuse-ito. That basically makes it the De Do Do Do, De Da Da Da of cocktails: It might be good, but who wants to actually request it?

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Longtime bar man Sean Conner, of Lewisville's Pie 3.14 and formerly of Whiskey Cake, has been making the drink for years, though unaware of its miserably named connections. (It lived briefly as "Green Drank" at The Establishment, where Conner consulted, before the restaurant closed last year.) "I was at Whiskey Cake one day playing around with Chartreuse and made an herbal mojito," Conner said. At Pie 3.14, "we still make it all the time. I just think it's a good drink."

Then, earlier this year, bartender Brad Stogsdill of Cosmo's Bar & Lounge in Lakewood was scouring the Internet for drinks to make with mint when he unearthed the ugly duckling from the archives and put it on the menu. I saw "Chartreuse" and took a swan dive right in: Properly made, the drink is simple, sweet and light on its feet, a radiant emerald Venus circled by her moons mint, lime, sugar and soda. Stogsdill rightfully reins in the sugar levels to adjust for Chartreuse's floweriness; those same floral qualities cast it perfectly alongside the other ingredients, which tame the potion's bossy nature while letting its shimmery essence shine.

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"I remember being skeptical," Stogsdill said. "Then I tasted it and I was, like, that's pretty good."

Stogsdill's hefty version of the Two Revolutions cocktail at Cosmo's Bar & Lounge in Lakewood.
Stogsdill's hefty version of the Two Revolutions cocktail at Cosmo's Bar & Lounge in Lakewood.(Marc Ramirez)

But: That name. Stogsdill and I agreed that a new appellation was in order, something more interesting than the Green Chartreuse Mojito. After a half-hour of brainstorming, we decided on this:

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Two Revolutions.

The name plays off both the Mojito's Cuban origins and the twist offered by a liqueur from France, reflecting the upheaval that would come to define the course of both countries. It leans weighty instead of silly, is no problem to pronounce and carries enough unspecific imagery to give it verve.

Hey, bartenders, help me out here: Maybe, just maybe, a new name can itself come to define the course of a drink that deserves a better fate.

DO IT YOURSELF:

Start your own revolution at home with the same ingredients you'd use to supplement rum in a mojito - fresh limes, sugar, mint and club soda - plus a bottle of Green Chartreuse.

While The Ultimate Bar Book's recipe calls for an ounce each of rum and Chartreuse, I prefer an all-green version (pictured at top) similar to one found on completecocktails.com.

1½ oz Green Chartreuse

1/2 lime, cut into wedges

6 to 8 mint leaves, plus a sprig for garnish

1 tsp sugar (or 1 tbsp of 1:1 simple syrup)

Chilled club soda

Muddle the lime and sugar in an Old Fashioned glass. Add the mint and muddle some more to release the juices. Fill with ice, then add Green Chartreuse and stir. Top with club soda and garnish with a mint sprig.